Skin Helpers​

We all have our own beauty routines that help us feel strong and healthy. When it comes to skincare, there are countless products and solutions on the market, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed trying to figure out what each one actually does.

To make things simpler, I’ve created a list of common skincare ingredient categories that are frequently found in various products. This helps me – and hopefully will help you – to better understand what your skin might need.

Please note that this is just an informational guide. Always check whether ingredients can be used together, ensure they’re suitable for your skin goals and type, and make sure you’re not allergic to them.

Hydrators/Moisturizing agents: Skin hydration and moisture retention

Hydration = Adding water to the skin
Moisturization = Softening the skin, locking in water, and preventing water loss

  • Hyaloronic acid is a surface-level hydrator that pulls water into the skin, helping itppear plumper and more refreshed.
  • Glycerin is also is another powerful hydrator that penetrates deeper into the skin, drawing moisture from the air and delivering it internally.
  • Squalane is a moisturizing ingredient that softens the skin and locks in moisture by forming a protective barrier.
  • Ceramides prevent water loss, help strengthen the skin barrier, locking in hydration and keeping external aggressors at bay.
Amino acids: Repairing and maintaining skin health

Amino acids are essential components of the skin’s natural moisturizing system. They help maintain hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and soothe irritation. While they don’t actively stimulate collagen production like peptides or retinoids, they serve as the building blocks for collagen, elastin, and keratin—supporting long-term skin health and structure. You can often identify amino acids by looking for ingredient names ending in “-ine”, such as glycine, arginine, or proline.

Oils: Sealing, nourishing, and softening the skin

Oils help lock in the products you’ve already applied while moisturizing and nourishing the skin. Here are a few favorites:

  • Bakuchiol is a gentle, plant-based alternative to retinol. It helps smooth fine lines and has powerful anti-aging properties.
  • Rosehip Oil supports healing and can help fade acne scars and dullness.
  • Vitamin C Oil brightens the skin and offers additional sun protection.
  • Marula Oil seals in moisture and deeply nourishes the skin.
Antioxidants: Protecting against environmental damage

Antioxidants protect the skin from environmental stressors like UV exposure, pollution, and free radicals. They help prevent signs of premature aging, calm inflammation, and support skin repair.

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Reduces redness, improves skin barrier function, speeds up healing, and helps prevent and treat breakouts.
  • Green Tea Extract is anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. It helps calm sensitive or irritated skin, reduces acne and blackheads, and helps control excess oil. 
Skin brightening agents: Balancing skin tone and reducing pigmentation
  • Vitamin C is both a brightening agent and an antioxidant. It helps reduce pigmentation, even out skin tone, and protect against sun damage. It is also used to treat dark circles, particularly those caused by pigmentation or dullness.
  • Alpha Arbutin is another brightening ingredient that targets dark spots and under-eye circles by gently reducing melanin production.
Peptides: Supporting firmness, elasticity, and anti-aging
Peptides help restore structural proteins like collagen and elastin, which naturally deplete over time. They encourage the skin to rebuild and repair itself, helping to heal and reduce the appearance of small scars.
By promoting collagen and elastin production, peptides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture. They also support firmer, plumper-looking skin over time.
You can spot peptides by names like Matrixyl, Argireline, or Snap-8, or ingredients containing “peptide.” Always check their concentration and the other actives in the product before use.
Retinoids: Targeting acne and visible signs of aging
 Retinoids are highly effective for targeting signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of firmness. They’re also used for acne treatment.
  • Retinol (a Vitamin A derivative) is the most well-known type of retinoid. While some people begin using it in their late 20s as a preventive measure, it is more commonly used in the 30s and beyond to target visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of firmness. However, it should be used cautiously – usually no more than twice a week unless your skin has built up tolerance.
  • Retinal is a more potent form of retinol that works faster but should only be used by those who are experienced with retinoids.

Keep in mind: Retinoids can cause irritation and don’t mix well with ingredients like AHAs or BHAs. Always patch test and check compatibility.

Exfoliants: Smoothing skin and unclogging pores
  • AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) work on the surface of the skin, helping to smooth and brighten it. Common AHAs include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Mandelic Acid.
  • BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) penetrate deeper into the skin, unclogging pores and removing dead skin cells. Salicylic Acid is the only BHA used in skincare.BHAs are better for oily or acne-prone skin, while AHAs are great for dry or dehydrated skin.

Note: BHAs are better for oily or acne-prone skin, while AHAs are great for dry or dehydrated skin.

Minerals: Calming, healing, and balancing the skin
Minerals are nature’s healers. Sourced from earth, water, and rock, they interact with skin cells to support natural functions.
  • Zinc is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. It helps regulate oil and calm skin irritations.
  • Magnesium soothes and supports skin repair, particularly for acne and rosacea.
  • Selenium protects against free radical damage, making it a good option for sensitive skin or sun protection.
SPF, UVA and UVB: Shielding skin from sun damage
As you probably know, sunscreen is essential. It should always be the final step in your morning skincare routine.
Here’s a quick breakdown:
  • UVA rays penetrate deeply and contribute to wrinkles, aging, and dark spots.
  • UVB rays damage the surface and cause sunburn.
If a sunscreen only lists SPF, it protects against UVB rays only. For full protection (UVA + UVB), look for terms like:
  • Broad Spectrum
  • PA+++ or PA++++
  • UVA circle logo
Let your skincare journey be both informed and enjoyable. Understanding what your skin truly needs can help you build a routine that supports long-term health and radiance.
Let me know if you enjoyed the article or would like to see more on related topics!